CLEAN/TRAD CLIMBING SPOTS
To experience immaculate rock free of human traces, one does not need to travel very far. Here is a selection of trad climbing spots and routes located in Switzerland.
The Jura is ideal for trad climbing because it is easily accessible and because the approach walks are generally easy going. In addition, south exposed faces sometimes allow multipitch clean routes to be climbed in winter. You can also test yourself in the range 6c/7a.
Ticino is THE spot to experience clean climbing routes. On the summits above Ponte Brolla, the potential to climb unbolted routes on very good rock is enormous. But beware, you could get addicted! Once experienced, the wild tessiner routes will never want to leave your mind. Further information: Ticino keepwild! climbs
Bergell & Val di Mello
The massive granite cliffs of Bergell & Val di Mello rarely leave climbers unimpressed. The majority of classic routes such as the north ridge or the Cassin route on the Piz Badile have been unbolted/cleaned such that almost only belay anchors remain. Remaining bolts are usually far from each other and placed only when stoppers and cams cannot be used for protection. Further information: Best of keepwild! climbs
Gotthard & Grimsel
The bombproof granite of the Gotthard and Grimsel regions are well adapted to clean climbing, except for their compact slabs. Many routes have been bolted in this region, and therefore clean routes became a rarity. Among the long multipitch routes in the Salbit region, only the west ridge remains unbolted. A good spot is the «Gruebenkessel» in the Grimsel region, where clean routes are still more numerous than bolted ones. Further information here: Gruebenkessel
Bietschhorn – Aletsch
Probably because they are hidden behind the well-known Eiger & co, those submits have been overlooked by climbers. This is great news for clean climbing since many good routes remained unbolted! Some of the most remote and wild routes of Switzerland can be found in Bietschtal, Bietschiedertal, Fieschertal and on the Fusshörner. Further information here: Best of keepwild! climbs
Rock quality in Wallis goes from perfect to very fragile. Around Arolla and the P. d’Andolla, one can find fantastic climbing routes on very good rock. Wallis even offers the possibility to clean climb a 4000m summit, the Obergabelhorn via its south face. From there, the views on the north face of the Matterhorn is unforgettable. Further information here: Best of keepwild! climbs